Hyaluronic acid for skin care product formulation

CRISTALHYAL® is a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid with a very high purity. It has a high water retention of 1,000 times its weight in water. The strong hygroscopic properties allow for retention of water at the surface of the skin. It forms a film at the surface in which water is mechanically captured. This helps protecting the skin from external aggressions that otherwise may alter the natural lipidic barrier, and it stops the peeling off of the horny layer of the skin. Because water retains on the surface of the skin, and the water loss is blocked, CRISTALHYAL® also helps providing a velvety skin feel.

CRISTALHYAL® is produced by a biotech production process using non-GMO lactic bacteria multiplying on substrate derived from wheat. Its chemical structure is completely identical to the endogenous one produced by the fibroblasts and keratinocytes. It is a white, water-soluble powder, preservation free. Dosage ranges from 0.01 to 0.3%. It is an easy-to-formulate cosmetic ingredient.

The CRISTALHYAL® range comprises hyaluronic acids with molecular weight (MW) ranging from 700 to 2200 kDa:

• CRISTALHYAL® 2.2: MW: 1400-2200 kDa
• CRISTALHYAL® MW+: MW: 1400-2200 kDa
• CRISTALHYAL®FL: MW: 1000-1400 kDa. A solution of high molecular weight sodium hyaluronate at 1%.
• CRISTALHYAL® 1.0: MW: 700-1000 kDa.
• CRISTALHYAL® e-Perfection

The PRIMALHYAL™ range comprises a variety of hyaluronic acids with low or medium molecular weight with hydration, anti-aging, reconstruction, and defense properties. The range includes:

PRIMALHYAL™ 50: Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, 20-50 kD. It is an in-depth moisturisation that leads to skin firmness improvement and to reinforcement of the skin helping the skin look younger. PRIMALHYAL™ 50 reduces skin roughness and increases skin firmness. Preservative-free, hydro-soluble white powder. Dosage 0.1-0.5%. Claims: Anti-wrinkle, collagen booster, skin lifting, anti-age spots, anti-acne.

PRIMALHYAL™ 300: Average molecular weight hyaluronic acid, 100-300 kDa. This grade helps to maintain an effective skin defense level against harmful bacteria contamination, and it also boosts the wound healing process. It is perfect for skin protection and repair. Preservative-free, water-soluble powder. Dosage 0.05-2%.

PRIMALHYAL™ Gold: Average molecular weight HA (< 50 kDa). This oil-dispersible HA is able is penetrate the skin deep down to the dermis layer, where it helps holding the water. It has instant and long-lasting hydration properties. PRIMALHYAL™ Gold is a new generation of highly hydrated hyaluronic acid, which can be formulated in oil and powders. Colorless to pale liquid, oil-soluble. Dosage: 4-5%. Claims: Long term hydration, make-up care, active HA.

PRIMALHYAL™ Ultrafiller: Is a new generation of HA that behaves as a filler by penetrating deeply into the skin and quickly reducing wrinkles. It stimulates epidermis and dermis metabolism to decrease the production of collagenases and collagen degradation, and to restore the antioxidant defenses helping the skin to fight free radicals. In vitro experiments also shows that PRIMALHYAL™™ Ultrafiller is highly resistant to biological degradation compared to standard HA, thus it has long-lastingness. PRIMALHYAL™™ Ultrafiller is multifunctional, it works as an antioxidant, anti-pollutant, and anti-aging. Claims: Fast wrinkle reduction, skin texture improvements, antioxidant defense’s booster, antipollution, UV-damages protection. Preservative-free, water-soluble, light-yellow powder. Dosage 0.1-0.2%.

PRIMALHYAL™ Hydra[+]: A novel generation of hyaluronic acid with a low molecular weight (20-50kDA) and a high cationization degree providing unique skin adhesion properties. The positively charged HA molecules strongly binds to the negatively changed skin surface delivering biological benefits in terms of barrier function improvement and intense moisturisation in rinse-off applications. PRIMALHYAL™ Hydra[+] is also ideal for leave-on formats.

Benefits of PRIMALHYAL™ Hydra[+] include instant and long-lasting hydration both in rinse-off and leave-on products, and improval of the skin barrier (stratum corneum). PRIMALHYAL™ Hydra[+] is a preservative-free, water-soluble, white powder. Dosage: 0.1%.
Claims: New HA generation, improved skin adhesion, instant – and long-lasting hydration, skin barrier reinforcement, hydration in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

HYALUSPHERE® is a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (1000-1400 kDa) which is encapsulated by the patented SPHERULITE™ micro-encapsulation technology. This encapsulation enables the HA to penetrate the deep skin layers, where it fills in wrinkles and smoothens the skin. Clinical tests have shown that HYALUSPHERE® significantly soothes average wrinkles with fast and long-term results. The number of wrinkles was reduced by 20% in 6 hours.

HYALUSPHERE® is produced by a biotechnology process using lactic bacteria and vegetal substrate. Claims: Anti-ageing, anti-wrinkles/reducing fine lines, plumping. It is a milk to cream colored, water dispersible ingredient. Dosage 2-3 %.