Active ingredients for anti-ageing and well-ageing product formulas

Consumers are increasingly interested in proactive skincare to maintain skin health and delay signs of ageing, as well as products that target existing signs of ageing.

EVERNITYL™ is a marine active that efficiently fights porphyrins and targets the roots of Porphyr’Ageing™. It is designed to support well-ageing skincare by focusing on both prevention and repair, helping to promote healthier, more youthful-looking skin.

The powerful ingredient is derived from Laminaria hyperborea, a macroalga harvested from the ocean in Brittany. It is produced through an innovative upcycling process where the fresh algae are transformed into a powdered extract using a sustainable, solvent-free method. The active molecule, laminaran, is then modified to enhance its anti-aging properties and efficacy.

Ageing has an impact on the mitochondrial metabolism and reticular dermis organisation. The mitochondria are the very important organelles that generates energy for the cell. The reticular dermis (the lower layer of dermis) is composed of dense irregular connective tissues and features densely packed collagen fibres. Such protein fibers ensure the strength, extensibility, and elasticity of the dermis. However, as we age or are exposed to external stresses, some damages are done to the mitochondria of the dermal fibroblasts. This leads to production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inadequate energy production when the cells are converting oxygen to energy. The changed gene expression of the fibroblasts will affect the collagen production, cause inflammation, disruption of detoxification pathway (proteasome) and oxidation of skin pigments (lipofuscin). This leads to disorganisation of the extracellular matrix, premature aging, and appearance of age spots.

AGEFINITY™ active cosmetic ingredient significantly reduces visible age spots and visibly decreases crow’s feet wrinkles and reduces neck wrinkles to remodel the Y-shape of the face. Derived from a vegetal source using green chemistry, AGEFINITY™ has been shown in in vitro experiments to reactivate mitochondrial energy metabolism in older cells. Additionally, in vitro tests demonstrated that it promotes skin matrix restructuring, strengthens the Dermo Epithelial Junction (DEJ) and reorganises the skin matrix to resemble that of younger skin.

AGEFINITY™ is a clear liquid that is preservative free, soluble in water. Dosage is 0.1% to 4%.

EASYLIANCE® 2.0 is a synergistic blend of hydrolyzed biopolymer (Rhizobian Gum) naturally produced by fermentation, and sustainably sourced gum acacia (Acacia senegal) from Africa.

It provides immediate lifting and tensing effect by mechanical action. Upon application, EASYLIANCE® forms a thin and elastic film on the surface of the skin. This film acts as an invisible barrier helping to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles and giving an immediate visible lifting effect within 5 minutes.

In vivo tests shows that EASYLIANCE® 2.0:

• Smoothes the skin
• Provides a lifting effect – confirmed by 81% of the panelists (12 volunteers, from 35 to 52 years)
• Presents a better tightening effect than commercially available serums

EASYLIANCE® 2.0 is a preservative-free, white to beige, water-soluble powder. Dosage: 2-3%. Claims: Anti-wrinkle/reducing fine lines, anti-ageing, film forming, firming/instant firming.

Retinol is a very popular cosmetic ingredient for beauty consumers. It is normally produced via petrochemical synthesis, using non-natural and non-sustainable solvents, a lot of energy, and complicated purification steps. Besides that, the petrochemically produced retinol often requires the use of strong and potent antioxidants such as BHT/BHA or polysorbate to protect the highly instable molecule.

RETILIFE™ is the first concentrated retinol in the market with 100% natural origin content, offering the same biological activity as its chemical benchmark. The retinol in RETILIFE™ is strictly identical to the chemically synthesized retinol molecule, however, it is obtained through a fermentation process, using plant sugars as substrate, and followed by a “simple” distillation step. Thus, it is 100% from natural origin, it contains 0% of fossil-based carbon, and the carrier system is made of sunflower oil. In addition, the pure and highly concentrated retinol is protected using natural antioxidants such as a combination of tocopherol and rosemary extract.

RETILIFE™ is preservative-free, oil-soluble, yellow liquid. Dosage: Up to 0.6% in hand and face creams, and in other leave-on or rinse-off products, up to 0.1% in body lotion.

Claims: Anti-ageing, anti-wrinkles, antioxidant, hyaluronic acid production, skin firming, skin smoothing.

As we age, we start losing some key extracellular matrix constituents: collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin, which are linked to skin firmness and elasticity. This results in signs of ageing such as sagging skin, lack of tonicity and firmness, and loss of a well-defined face. External factors including UV exposure, pollution, artificial light can increase the natural ageing phenomenon, but the perpetual and constant action of the gravity also contributes to many signs of ageing, particularly on the lower part of the face.

GRAVITYL™ is a 100% natural ingredient with strong facial lifting and reshaping benefits. It is based on enriched extracts from a macroalgae, Gigartina stellata, and is crafted by a multi-step and eco-friendly process. Research has demonstrated that this extract is able to relaunch the production of key biomarkers linked to extracellular matrix and elastic fibre protection, and to reorganise fibres in the dermis. GRAVITYL™ fights visible signs of ageing, skin sagging and double chin volume and has a proven efficacy on the face contour.

GRAVITYL™ is a preservative-free, water-soluble, pale-yellow liquid. Dosage: 1%.
Claims: Facial contour improvement, skin sagging reduction, skin firmness improvement, collagen booster, skin lifting, skin tonicity improvement, double chin reduction, jawline redefinition.