08 September 2016
To answer the growing consumer requests for oil-based products with skin benefits, Soliance presents the very first generation of oil soluble self-tanning active ingredient: Vegetan Gold
Increased awareness of the danger to health from sunburnt skin and the cultural desire for a tan have been key growth drivers for self tanning agents. With the key focus on prevention and protection, DiHydroxyAcetone (DHA) provides a safe natural tanning effect to the skin without sun exposure.
At the same time, oil is popular in all beauty categories reflecting health, fun and joy. Oil based products have a sensual and luxurious feel which makes you feel at one with nature. To answer the growing desire for oil-based products, Givaudan Active Beauty is the first to market oil compatible DHA: VegetanTM Gold.
Based on an exclusive micro-emulsion technology, VegetanTM Gold opens the door to the development of new types of self-tanning oils for the cosmetic brands which brings a silky rich tan to the skin.
The bronzing effect of VegetanTM Gold is the biochemical result of the immediate and spontaneous coloration of the epidermis via the formation of brown polymers called melanoidins, resulting in a smooth and natural tanning effect.
The intensity of the self-tanning of VegetanTM Gold reaches its maximum within only 24 hours after its first application. The tan stays optimum for 48 hours, and shades away with the natural exfoliation of the skin.
VegetanTM Gold has been crafted to offer formulators the possibility to easily design distinctive crystal transparent oil formulas. This innovative active ingredient is fully compatible with sun filters and other oil-soluble active ingredients, for a straight forward integration in sun care lines.
Besides oil cosmetic products, VegetanTM Gold can also be incorporated in non-oily ones as it is water soluble.
A new process for oil based self tanning formula
Due to its microemulsion nature, VegetanTM Gold can be added in a high quantity in the formulation, and it will be the core of the formula. In order to obtain a rich, transparent self tanning oil some formulation steps need to be followed under cold magnetic stirring:
1) Add the amount of VegetanTM Gold you want to include in the formula.
2) Introduce the hydrophilic actives.
3) Add the lipophilic actives/filters and the perfume.
4) Mix it with vegetable oil <10%.
5) Blend it using a surfactant: Polysorbate 85, PEG7 Glycerol cocate, Laureth-4, Polysorbate 81.
6) Incorporate alternately esters and surfactant until you reach transparency.
VegetanTM Gold is:
- Oil compatible
- UV filter compatible